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San Francisco Cooking

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San Francisco Cooking with Betty Evans is a collection of recipes from the diverse cuisine of this exhilirating cosmopolitan city.

Information and suggestions for visiting San Francisco make this book useful not only as a cookbook, but as a travel guide. San Francisco sketches by Gordon Evans add to the charm of this volume.
Softcover 103 pages

Memories, memories... Yes, they are what make San Francisco one of the truly great cities of the world. You simply cannot visit San Francisco without leaving your heart and taking with you wonderful memories. And it is impossible to think of San Francisco without remembering the tastes and sights captured in this marvelous book by Betty Evans. My first real memories of San Francisco are from 1947 when, as a student on the GI Bill at the University of California, I would, on an occasional Friday night, venture into "the City" to visit my Uncle Albert. Uncle Albert had something of a reputation in my family, which made the prospect of seeing him and being in San Francisco all the more exciting. Uncle Albert was a charming, gracious man who loved fine food and fine wine. And though he was always a bit vague when describing his livelihood to other family members, he was, in fact, a bag man for the gambling clubs that flourished throughout the city in 1947 under the protective eye of the San Francisco authorities. As a collector of gambling revenues, he would roam through the heart of the city after dark with a special bag strapped inside his coat. In this leather and wool strongbox, he deposited his employer's “take”, a considerable sum. The underside of San Francisco-every bar with a back room, every clip joint, every club where you had to know someone to get past the front door-this was Uncle Albert's territory. But his real love was the elegant San Francisco. Fortunately for me, he also loved to show this exquisite San Francisco to his starving student nephew. One Friday night it would be Jack's or the Tadish Grill, another the 365 Club or the Temple Bar and on another, Ernie's. I learned much more about the really important things in life-wine, women, food—on one Friday night in San Francisco with Uncle Albert than in several years at the University. It was at Ernie's that I first learned that you must be dressed properly to be served properly at a good restaurant (or anywhere else, for that matter). It was at Ernie's as well that I learned that if you want to play the part, you must be prepared to pay the price. For on one Saturday morning, Capitola and I were with another young couple in the Alexis Bar on Knob Hill. I phoned Ernie's for a reservation and, summoning up my best Jimmy Stewart imitation, convinced Victor Gotti, one of the owners, that the star of "Vertigo” would be dining there that evening. Victor rearranged the entire dining room to accommodate this Hollywood royalty. At the time, I had more than a passing resemblance to the actor, but though Victor realized immediately when he saw me that he had an imposter on his hands, he played along. "Glad to have you and your party as our guests, Mr. Stewart,” he said. “We have prepared all of your favorites.” Of course, Victor had the last laugh when I received the bill. It was the first time Ernie ever charged for water, napkins, a'nd silverware. But, believe me it was a superb meal and a splendid evening. It was at the 365 Club that I learned that it is best to sample the wine (or anything else, for that matter) before accepting it. Uncle Albert did indeed send it back on more than one occasion, but not before teaching me why he was sending it back. At Jack's and the Tadich Grill I learned about the importance of tradition: how tradition and pride are ingredients in every dish served in San Francisco, right down to that wonderful sourdough bread that is so unique to the City, and how all in a San Francisco restaurant-chefs, maitre d’s, waiters, bartenders, busboys — work together to make San Francisco dining a unique, fulfilling, and memorable experience. Even memories of the romantic San Francisco are rooted in the city's culinary delights. Though I cannot remember who I was with that night, I can still remember hearing Tonny Bennett sing "I Left My Heart in San Francisco” at the Fairmont. And I still remember my first drink (a Gibson!) at the St. Francis's black patent walled Leather Bar (long since remodeled with boring oak paneling), bravely ordered while waiting one Friday evening for Uncle Albert to appear. And then there was the Temple Bar. To a college student, its location on a quiet alley was so romantic, perhaps it was just the beautiful and intelligent secretaries who showed up after work that made it seem that way. Over the years, other memories of the City are associated with other stages of my life. I remember the tightness in my legs as I ran with a hundred thousand other Bay-to-Breakers nuts year after year. And, of course, the best memories of all: my daughter Tera graduating from the Culinary Academy of San Francisco, my daughter Deslie graduating from the San Francisco Art Institute, and my daughter Danelle graduating in architecture from UC Berkeley. And, oh yes! My marriage to Maryann shared with some of my closest friends (including the Evans) and family in the Ambrosia Room at Ernie's. Who could have better memories? Especially since every one of them concluded with a fantastic dining experience. Betty has so brilliantly brought together a bouquet of San Francisco specialties set among Gordon's beautiful sketches—one taste and the memories, both old and new, will blossom forth. Just remember! A San Francisco experience is yours forever. -Les Guthrie, a friend of the Evans for more than fifty years. April 1990